The Christmas turkey

It's taken me many years, but I have finally discovered the best way to buy a turkey (well two turkeys actually). For years and years I just bought a frozen turkey from the supermarket, with a few close shaves as to whether I would find one or not. Then last year I ordered two from the supermarket. (We are a large party of 14-18 people and turkey lovers all). It seemed an efficient way to do it. But alas when I turned up to collect my turkeys the day before cooking them, I found they had given one of them away! (Well - not given - sold to somebody else.) Panic. But then I discovered that the rival supermarket had fresh ones still, so the situation was saved. So this year I asked a few questions and found that in the last week before Christmas both supermarkets have fresh ones. So today I pounced and I can no breathe easy again. I chose Coles because their turkeys are RSPCA approved - a very small gesture of kindness to animals.

It's a real performance the turkey isn't it? I use Robert Carrier's tried and trusted recipe for roasting it which involves covering it with cheesecloth. This prevents it burning but produces a moist bird and a crispy skin. And I have yet to get the cheesecloth - becoming harder and harder to find. Thank heavens for Spotlight. The stuffing (which I sometimes think is really what everyone wants) is Jane Grigson's celery and lemon stuffing. It's lighter than many and complements the bird beautifully. I'll give it below.

So not a lot more to say. Turkey is an American bird and it wasn't really used for the Christmas dinner until Victorian times. It's large and can feed a lot of people - which is why it is so suitable. Lots of people pour scorn on it - not very tasty - but I would disagree. Particularly with that delicious stuffing. And it's wonderful cold the next day in sandwiches. And because we only have it once a year, it's special.

All hail to the turkey. And I now have one less thing to worry about.

CELERY STUFFING WITH LEMON AND PARSLEY

Sorry - the quantities are in ounces. But you can easily look up the equivalent. I'm feeling lazy today.

8oz, chopped onion, 8oz, chopped celery, 4oz butter, 12 oz fresh breadcrumbs, rind and juice of 1 large lemon, 4 tablespoons chopped parsley, 2 small eggs, salt and pepper.

Melt onion and celery in the butter over a low heat, covered for about 20 minutes. (I do this in the microwave). The vegetables should not brown. Remove pan from the heat, and mix with the rest of the ingredients in a large bowl. Season to taste.

Absolutely delicious. You just can't have too much of it. I make it the day before. Just to lessen the load.