The bearded look
“It appears that beards gain an advantage when rare, but when they are in fashion and common, they are declared trendy and that attractiveness is over ... The bigger the trend gets, the weaker the preference for beards and the tide will go out again,”
Robert Brooks - Researcher
What have beards got to do with food you might say? Well the picture at right came from an ad for flavoured syrups for coffee (another post there I think). And it showed what is now a very typical sight - the barista with the Ned Kelly haircut and beard, complete with the flannel or cotton checked shirt and the calico apron. They are everywhere. Most often seen in cafés, restaurants and trendy inner suburbs. The urban hipster look. Why?
As usual I am probably talking about this way too late. At the time when it's all going to disappear. America it appears is already on the way out with beards. I saw several articles that talked about 'peak beard' - like 'peak oil' - all downhill from here. But there seems to be little sign of it waning at the moment - it has even reached the cafés of outer suburban Eltham.
As to why, well there are a number of theories. Here are some that I found.
"studies have found women actually prefer facial hair on men because it adds definition and somehow the ability to grow hair is attractive to women — who knew? Olivia Lambert - News.com.au
I think I agree with the 'who knew' comment here. Personally I would think that we, as women do not like beards. Scratchy, dirty - food collects in it, vaguely threatening perhaps, the thought that they are trying to hide something, no confidence in who they are? I admit I did quite like the stubble look of a few years back, from a distant aesthetic point of view that is, not in fact. David tried it for a few days - far too scratchy and I think rather difficult to maintain. Mind you I did also find this, from a guy talking about his beard and his girlfriend's attitude to it:
“Whenever she’s stressed out, she can give it a stroke. With apartment living, we’re not allowed pets so this is the next-best thing.”
Weird, and ever so slightly freaky?
The articles I read were not really clear about whether the men did it for women though, or indeed whether women actually liked it.
“We still don’t really know the primary function of the beard. Some women are attracted to it, some are repelled. It is clear it is a sign of manliness, it makes men look older and also more aggressive. How much women like that depends, in a way, on how overtly masculine they like their men." Robert Brooks - Researcher
It certainly is something that men can do that women can't, that makes them different and there was even some implication that the previous androgynous fashion trend was making men feel increasingly uncomfortable.
“I think it’s a lot to do with guys really starting to look like girls with tight jeans and cut off shorts. It was time to become more masculine and what’s more masculine than a beard? They look distinguished and cool. ... the barber shop trend is about creating a space where men can hang out. Guys are sick of going to a ladies hair salon. They want to come in here, have half an hour to themselves and have a chat with the boys,” Dan Lloyd - Barber
“It’s the thing guys can do to set themselves apart and have a bit of individuality,” Jules Tognini - Australian Men's Hairdresser of the Year
But individuality? No. Well not now anyway, when every second man in certain milieux has one. Which I guess is why we are at 'peak beard'. When everyone has one you are no longer individual - it becomes a uniform. Which I suppose is all a bit obvious. The researcher I have quoted before, said that these trends tended in the past to have a 30 year cycle, which sounds a bit long to me, but these days because of the internet it's faster.
I suppose it's fair to say that all beards are not Ned Kelly beards. But they do seem to be the thing with the baristas and the foodies. Which is interesting, because that's not at all what Ned Kelly was about. Here's the man himself, shortly before his execution. And indeed it's a very similar look to the barista at the top of the page.
Normally our fashions are derived from the fashion industry itself, or from a particular celebrity. I saw one suggestion that the craze began with the Heath Ledger Ned Kelly film, not from Ned Kelly himself, but I only saw that suggestion once. Who knows who first started it. Be that as it may it certainly shows no sign of slowing down.
It's all of a piece with the mystery of why Ned Kelly is thought to be such a hero here in Australia, when really he was just a petty thief, who turned to violence when cornered.
At first it was thought to be a disaster for the shaving industry but I gather it has actually turned out to be the instigator of a boom in barber shops and associated equipment.
"From trimmers and clippers to lightly fragranced beard oil, keeping men’s chin fluff looking its best has become big business.
It has been estimated that Australia’s male grooming sector is now worth more than $500 million annually and is one of the personal care industry’s fastest growing areas, as men become more and more concerned with premature ageing and the condition of their skin and hair." Elle Halliwell - Daily Telegraph
Like I said, David gave up his small attempt at stubble because of the maintenance - and my displeasure of course. It looked quite good though and I guess it was a bit more masculine. But then experience has also shown has it not, that the androgynous look can be sexy to some too - with David Bowie of course being the ultimate in that look. But even he wore a beard every now and then.
And whether I or any other female thought he was sexy or not in either guise, obviously a lot of people did. Charismatic certainly.
The other reason that was proposed for the growth of the beard trend was that workplaces became less rigid about dress codes and facial hair. And so the suit declined in favour of smart casual and the beard was allowed in. Not if you're a pilot for Qantas though:
"Qantas does not allow its pilots to sport facial hair because in times of emergency a beard may stop a perfect seal being formed around the face when the oxygen mask drops down. Does that mean more bearded people die in plane crashes than the non-bearded?" Michael McGuire - The Advertiser
Sorry - I couldn't resist putting that one in.
Another thing. In all the articles I read about the bearded fashion and masculinity, none of them mentioned that the shaggy beard is also a symbol for the ultimate terrorists of Isis and many years before them the Mujahideen of Afghanistan.
So it's a little surprising is it not that the beard can still be so fashionable? A very slight difference in look perhaps. But not that much for not all of the islamic look have no moustache. But then I guess there are the clothes as well. Because actually the clothes, as worn by the barista at the top of the page are an important part of the whole look. Not sure about the tatts.
I know the connection to food has been a bit slight in this post. But the initial inspiration was food related, and this is still, I think, where you are most likely to see the Ned Kelly beard in all its glory. And a final quote that I couldn't resist.
"Apparently there’s a code between bearded men: if one beard crosses the street at the same time as another beard, the biggest beard has right of way. Who knew?" - The Sydney Morning Herald
POSTSCRIPT
There is now a hip barber's in Doncaster shopping centre. There were queues of men waiting outside to get in!
