The King Valley

Victoria's Mediterranean

Back to our trip to the High Country of Victoria . I think they call this region the High Country even though there are higher mountains to come as you travel north. So let's say it's the edge of the High Country. Whatever it is, it seems to be one of the highest vine growing regions in Australia and as such is particularly adept at the cool climate wines of Italy.

For it's one of Australia's little Italian pockets. There are a few. I wondered why particularly and have come to the conclusion that it is all down to there being a migrant hostel in Albury/Wodonga for the floods of European migrants who came to Australia after WW2. Obviously they also went elsewhere but many of them ended up in this particular migrant collection point - apparently one of Australia's largest, for many of them were destined to work on the Snowy River Hydro Scheme.

But to take a step back, the area was previously settled by Chinese after the goldrush of Central and Southern Victoria. The Chinese were famous for setting up market gardens to supply the prospectors. In fact the Chinese probably made more money out of the goldrush than those looking for gold. But they also grew tobacco and migrated to this area to establish the crop. Another lucrative proposition, and when some of the Italians left the Snowy scheme they also took up tobacco farming, which some of them had done back in Italy. And the King Valley seemed almost like home to the Italians of the north. And so the King Valley became Italian. The same names crop up everywhere and I think there has probably been a lot of intermarrying going on. I have to say that on our recent trip the Chinese influence has been overtaken by the Italian - but then the Chinese have been here so much longer.

The tobacco growing was the main cash crop of the region for many years - I remember seeing it growing nearby in Myrtleford when we travelled there in the 70s - but by the late 1970s it had died. Some of the kilns were left behind and are gradually falling apart in the fields. Some have been converted into hop kilns - for now hops are a major crop alongside the vines and the nuts, particularly chestnuts apparently. And alongside the Italian wineries there are also craft beer distilleries. And yet more of the kilns have been converted into trendy buildings. The Pizzini winery, for example certainly had a touch of that style.

But wine is the thing and Italian wines of all kinds in particular. Prosecco is the king of course, and now they are hoping to do the same with sangiovese - there is a five year project to develop a world-beating Sangiovese style.

prosecco

sangiovese

Otto Dal Zotto of the Dal Zotto winery has been credited with introducing Prosecco to the region, back in 1999. He comes from the area in Italy where Prosecco wine is produced and so, having settled in the King Valley and noting its similarities to his old home he decided to try his hand at it. Apparently it took him a long time to actually find some plants in Australia, and then he had to persuade the grower - an Italian who just had a few in his backyard - to part with some. There was testing, and several years of development and persuasion before Rrosecco became the drink of the moment that it now is.

"there was a lot of time after that where it was hard work, and it took years of pushing before it suddenly started to get traction. All of a sudden it went crazy; you could say it’s taken twenty years for Prosecco to become an overnight success!” Otto Dal Zotto

Dal Zotto was one of the wineries we visited. It's comparatively modest in appearance, but I'm sure it must now be big business as it is one of the best brands. Indeed I would say that of those that we tasted I liked theirs best.

Having read a whole lot on the excellent Wines of the King Valley: Italian Spirit website I now know that it has been a real joint effort on the part of the wine growers of the King Valley - and not just the Italians. Brown Brothers too have played a part in encouraging and developing things such as the Prosecco Road - a trail through the area that promotes the wine and the food of the region.

“Prosecco shows the strength of a little village region like the King Valley working together. It wouldn’t have achieved the popularity it has without us all working together, it’s that simple.” Christian Pizzini

“We shared the land, we shared the people power, we shared the equipment, and that culture is really what drives the wine industry. You can’t stand alone in such an isolated place, you have to work together, and that’s what makes it worthwhile,” Carla Pizzini

And you have to say they have been enormously successful with Prosecco.

"the combination of rich soil and cool climate is producing a wine so good that it’s making Italy nervous." Airbnb

So nervous they say, that the Italians are seeking to make Prosecco like an appellation contrôlée which would prohibit the use of the name Prosecco. So far they haven't succeeded and doubtless a way will be found around it if that does eventuate. And now the Italians of the King Valley are looking to do the same for Sangiovese with a dedicated group project.

But there are so many other Italian wines on offer here. So many I had never heard of. Arneis seems to be the latest one they are all having a go at. But of course, there are barbers, nebbiolo, pinot grigio as well. This is really why it's so interesting to go wine tasting in the area. So many new things to try. Though one of them (I can't remember which) was actually nasty.

And don't forget the food. We had lunch at the Chrismont winery and I had a ravioli dish that was sublime. With such a beautiful view too.

Well we were blessed with beautiful weather.

My son stayed had a weekend there earlier this year and they stayed in a b&b in an old converted church which they said was lovely. I see that Airbnb has two converted churches so I don't know which one, but it's probably the more modern looking one of the two. And lots of the vineyards have accommodation too.

It's beautiful. I wonder what will be the next big thing - Garganega? Otto Dal Zotto claims it's his go to drink of the moment.