Sort of a word from - Guy Grossi
"My father was a big influence in my decision to become a chef. He taught me the importance of respecting ingredients, and that the priority of a cook is to make the customers happy." Guy Grossi
On Friday my lovely daughter-in-law took me out for a belated birthday lunch at Grossi Florentino Grill - the middle-priced option of the three at Grossi Florentino in Bourke Street. I have written about it before when we went there last year. This year, as we were sitting there sipping our glass of prosciutto, Mr Guy Grossi himself came into the restaurant. He was dressed all in black and, I think, just doing an inspection round. I'm sure he doesn't cook himself in the Grill, maybe not even upstairs these days. He is overseeing a middle-sized restaurant empire after all. Anyway just behind Dionne he gathered all of his waiting staff together and harangued them about the importance of letting the customers know where his meat came from - down to the individual farms, and what they were fed on. We couldn't decide whether he was just being passionate about his product or whether he was rather bossily telling his staff off. We still can't decide.
Our waitress had certainly told us about the meat. Not that we chose the 1kg T-bone (to share between 2) that was on offer amongst other, I'm sure, excellent steak options. We settled for the 'special' lunch menu at $50.00 for three courses, a glass of wine and a coffee or tea. A real bargain and absolutely delicious. Honestly I couldn't say which dish was best. Here is what we had. From left to right, top to bottom - a spinach and ricotta ravioli with the most delectable walnut sauce, pasta with vongole and tomatoes (Dionnes' favourite dish), my chicken with a sauce that included pine nuts, and I'm afraid I can't remember what else - it was gorgeous though, salt cod and potatoes - also gorgeous and to finish a flourless lemon cake with a ricotta icing and an apple strudel.
Perfetto.
But back to Mr. Grossi. Florentino's is a Melbourne institution and so is the Grossi family. They are one of the big Italian families responsible for the upper echelon of Melbourne's Italian restaurants. Guy Grossi himself worked in a few of these in his early years. The Grossi family had, I think, three restaurants - including one called Pietro's (after Guy's father) here in Eltham which we visited a few times. It was a favourite of ours. But it was sold, along with others to purchase Florentino's. And they haven't looked back. Initially it was just the famous upstairs restaurant I think I've dined there too and I love it - but it is very expensive. Although I see from the website that it also has a 'cheap' lunch option.
The website is very glossy, and interestingly begins with a video of idyllic farms and vineyards. You would be forgiven for thinking that the Grossi family was into agricultural production mainly. But they are not. I guess it's just that emphasis on the best produce. Indeed if you look on their About page you will find this mission statement:
"Our food celebrates both Italian and Australian culture making reference to our past territory and its traditions and to our current territory from which we draw great produce and inspiration. We respect our environment to ensure that the produce and techniques we use are as sustainable as possible. We have strong relationships with our farmers and work closely with them to learn about the progressive practices that these craftsmen dedicate so much time to."
All good stuff and indeed what I like about the Grossi Italian food is that, although, it is indeed traditional, it also manages to seem both new and interesting. Which is sort of what I like about most of my favourite cooks I guess. The little twists on something familiar. Here are a couple of statements from Guy Grossi that enlarge a little bit upon that concept.
"Over the years, the food at Florentino has become more refined; it’s fresher and lighter. This is even happening in Italy. People want less tricky food with less seasoning and with quality ingredients. I think we’ve come full circle at Florentino. When the restaurant first started serving Italian food in 1928, they were trying to emulate the food of the old country, but, today, a new kind of Italian has been defined; it’s Melbourne Italian."
"People and cultures evolve over time, so change is not the enemy. It's more about the purpose for the change. If there is integrity behind the purpose, then the change is good. I always respect the foundations and traditions of Italian cuisine, but I believe in evolution. Trends for trends' sake, desperately following the latest fads or simply trying too hard to be noticed takes away from your real craft."
In the Florentino building there are three restaurants - the posh one upstairs, the Grill - not cheap, but not expensive either and one of my favourite Melbourne eating places. I must try to get David to go there. It was empty when we got there - like this - we were the first to arrive, but eventually I think there was just one empty table. And apart from the food, the service is really good and there is no pressure on you to eat up and leave. Food comes at the right pace, it's not too noisy. We sat at one of the tables in the foreground opposite the kitchen. And no smells from there either. As I said - perfetto.
Next door is the cellar bar where you could just have a coffee and cake, but where they serve simple classics such as minestrone, lasagne and melanzane parmigiana. No bookings here. And next door to that in a separate establishment which we ogled hungrily as we approached Florentino's is Ombra Bar, based on an Italian salumeria where you can eat and, I am guessing, take away food such as pizza, frittata and various preserved things. Behind Florentino's, appropriately in a laneway, is a bar - Arlequin. And down in Flinder's lane is Pezzo - take-away pizza.
The Grossi company website tells you about almost all of Guy Grossi's ventures - including another fine food establishment - Merchant - which is in the Rialto building and a restaurant in the Westin in Perth. For a while there he went international and opened the Grossi Trattoria and Bar in one of Bangkok's big hotels, but for some reason this is no longer one of his interests.
I list all these just to show that the man must be busy. Does he have time to cook any more one wonders? What is it like for all these celebrity chefs who take on all of these business enterprises? Disaster, such as the one confronting George Calombaris at the moment, or the one that hit Jamie Oliver in England recently must always be looming just around the corner. But there he was, Guy Grossi, personally checking out one of his restaurants - whether tactfully or not.
As to what he likes to eat himself. Apparently cheese is a favourite.
"A good cheese board is something that I always enjoy. It comes out at the end of the meal when everyone is sitting around, conversing and relaxing. This is what food is all about."
We didn't choose the cheese option, but these are three from the Grossi empire somewhere. I believe the one on the left is from the Grill. And we did sit around relaxing and conversing. Indeed I almost lost my voice. I can't seem to talk for long periods these days.
And what does he always have to have in his kitchen?
"Olive oil, onions, parmesan, parsley and passata."
No surprises there. Well maybe the parsley. One doesn't think of that as being very Italian - and where are the tomatoes, not to mention the pasta. Does he always just use passata instead of actual tomatoes? Does he make his own passata? Perhaps the pasta is such a given that it's not worth mentioning. But then maybe he makes all of his own pasta. When does he get the time?
I did like this picture.
I don't think the family tradition will die with him either - both his son and daughter are active members of the business.
I would have loved to have had a night in the Sofitel in Melbourne and dinner in Grossi Florentino upstairs to celebrate my 50th wedding anniversary. Never mind. Maybe the sixtieth!
